The Grand Circle Part III - The Capitol Reef

Part III of the Grand Circle Series - Southern Utah

In this article:

• Capitol Reef National Park

• Goblin Valley State Park

Capitol Reef National Park

Surrounded by some of southern Utah’s most sparsely populated regions Capitol Reef National Park is situated in between the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument as well as several National Forests to its west, and the vast open plains of the San Rafael Desert to its east. This is an area that is truly off the beaten track and where America’s Wild West is still very much alive today. The only notable villages within a 60 mile radius are the desert town of Hanksville and some rural settlements such as Torrey, both offering a handful of hotels, gas stations and convenience stores. Within the park a rugged and colorful desert landscape full of narrow canyons, steep cliffs, and bright domes forms the dramatic centerpiece of the Capitol Reef. The entire area is part of a large fault line that runs like a massive scar through much of southern Utah and has created a stunning landscape that is unlike any other place in the U.S. Set in the middle of this dramatic scenery are numerous well-preserved historic sites and cabins that show how life looked like when the first European settlers lived here. The combination of picturesque rural towns and historic sites set in the middle of a pristine desert wilderness makes a trip to the Capitol Reef area feel like traveling back in time.

Fruita

Sandstone Cliffs

I visited the area back in the summer of 2022, when I stayed in the remote village of Torrey for two nights. My travel route ran from Moab out east to Salt Lake City with a detour through the dramatic canyons of the Capitol Reef. The route down south from Green River towards Hanksville was already as dramatic as it gets, with massive thunderstorms towering above the San Rafael desert towards the west. As I got closer to Hanksville more and more pinnacles, buttes, and mesas rose from the vast open desert plains. There was not much going on in Hanksville that day so I continued my journey towards Caineville and through the lush Cathedral Valley with its seemingly endless OHV trails fanning out into the desert. The flats were a great place to blow off some steam - albeit without an OHV.

Beyond Caineville the road wound its way towards the canyons of the Capitol Reef and soon reached the eastern entrance of Capitol Reef National Park. Here the scenery changed quickly with sheer canyon walls rising right next to the road and with towering white domes visible beyond. The road closely followed the course of the Fremont River which has carved its way straight through the Capitol Reef, creating a lush green river valley in the process. A place that seemed like an oasis in this dramatic world of bare rocks and steep cliffs. There were several spots along the way to stop and pause and to simply enjoy the scenery. One of the highlights along the way was the short but incredibly picturesque hike towards the Hickman Natural Bridge in between the parks imposing domes. There was little to no shade along the way and the August sun was intense that day. Still, the short, two-mile out-and-back hike up the cliffs and along the rim was incredibly rewarding. Just a short drive from the trailhead the historic settlement of Fruita offers a collection of well-preserved buildings of early European settlers as well as some native rock arts and petroglyphs, showcasing the region's rich cultural background which dates back several centuries.

Inside Capitol Reef NP

Hickman Natural Bridge

While all of these places offered incredibly picturesque spots to explore, my all-time favorite was Goosenecks Overlook and Sunset Point close to the park’s western entrance. From here I witnessed one of the most beautiful sunsets in all of Utah with spectacular views all around. This slightly elevated point is situated just outside the western face of the Capitol Reef and therefore offers the best views of the colorful cliffs which start glowing dramatically once the sun goes down. The entire surrounding landscape then takes on this intense red color which is an incredible show to witness and was the perfect way for me to end this exciting day. Later that night this exact same spot was the place where I experienced a remarkably clear display of the Milky Way. With much of southern Utah offering exceptionally dark night skies, and Capitol Reef National Park situated hundreds of miles from the nearest major source of light pollution, this is one of the best places in the U.S. to watch the stars.

Milky Way

Capitol Reef sunset

Quick facts about Capitol Reef National Park:

• main roads: Utah State Route 24 / Fruita Scenic Drive

• highlights: Hickman Natural Bridge / Sunset Point at Goosenecks Overlook

• best hikes: Hickman Bridge Trail

• good to know: don’t miss the night sky (international dark sky park)

Goblin Valley State Park

A part of the San Rafael Desert Goblin Valley State Park is located in the middle of a vast stretch of land that seems as far away from civilization as hardly any other park within the Grand Circle. The park’s entrance is roughly 12 miles from Utah State Route 24 via a scenic road through remote desert landscapes and more than 30 miles from Hanksville, the nearest outpost of civilization. However, the park itself is well developed and offers a campground that seems like a high-end alternative to the campgrounds of the NPS, with spotless and modern facilities. Besides that, this comparatively small park offers a dense network of well-maintained hiking and biking trails. Located along the eastern edge of the San Rafael Swell Goblin Valley consists of mesas and pinnacles that are scattered throughout the desert plains - the most remarkable feature of them all being a basin filled to the brim with hundreds of sandstone hoodoos.

San Rafael Desert

Goblin Valley

When I was traveling in between the backcountry sections of Canyonlands National Park in the fall of 2024, making my way from the White Rim Road in the Island in the Sky towards the remote Maze district, I stopped along the way at Goblin Valley State Park. I have brought all my gear for a busy day including a mountain bike and hiking gear. First I took to the biking trails in the western section of the park, riding along the narrow winding trails past the towering mesas and pinnacles of this area. Towards the northern section the trails offered great views of the park in the valley below and of the distant San Rafael Swell. A great way to explore the desert and some of the most colorful bike trails that I have been on so far. After that I took to the Curtis Bench and Carmel Canyon Trails - both of which offered great scenic views of the surrounding landscapes. My personal highlight, however, was to venture into the actual Goblin Valley and walk amongst the hundreds of hoodoos. Getting up close with those strange rock formations and immersing myself in this maze of rocky Goblins was a unique experience.

Hoodoos

Iconic Goblin Valley

Quick facts about Goblin Valley State Park:

• main roads: only one main road leading in and out of the park

• highlights: Goblin Overlook / Curtis Bench

• best hikes: Curtis Bench Trail / Carmel Canyon Trail

• good to know: the park offers an extensive network of biking trails